FISH

This week we had sustainable fish stew. It’s a quick and easy way to feed a gang of hungries on a Friday night and doesn’t need much else but some good bread and wine. Like all stews, you need balance, rich liquid and a range of potent flavours steaming from your pot.

My feeling is that in Venice you need to seek out dishes, rather than places. Equally determined to avoid the withering looks and contempt of waiters serving menus turisticos, I wanted something the locals would eat. The insider knowledge.

I love sorrel. It’s wincing sourness crumples your nose like an old lady at a bus stop. I remember, crouching in the kitchen garden of my childhood, sucking the lemony stalks, one eye half closed.

Taking a walk along the estuary at West Mersea is rewarded by a delicious seafood lunch at The Company Shed.

When the weather is rough and you need some home comfort, Fish Pie is the best. Simple to cook and even easier to eat.

For many of us oysters are either a symbol of arriviste affluence or naughty extravagance. Along with rhino horn, tiger penis and asparagus, oysters are said to have considerable aphrodisiac properties. After all, if nothing else, I suppose all that slurping would be enough to get you in the mood.

The simple joy of two seasonal delights. Sea trout and Jersey Royals. Neither require much in the way of preparation, are easily and quickly cooked, and taste like the month of May on a plate. A marriage heralding summer days.

Under this year’s Christmas tree was F-W’s River Cottage Fish Book. Like his previous Meat, respect for ingredients comes first. In the knowledge that many of us are looking down at the scales right now, fish is the answer for healthy, lean eating.

The freshest fish lends itself perfectly, despite having to look hard to get a decent fish supper anywhere. For me, the best Fish and Chips experience in the world is Olley’s in Herne Hill.

Let’s face it, involved cooking experiences are not always appealing at the end of a long day. Like all creative enterprise, sometimes you just haven’t the energy to do more than hold a plate.

I think my approach to cooking is uncomplicated. It relies on what’s there, in the fridge. That in turn depends entirely on what I’ve fancied buying which is seldom based on any planning of what I will cook. This way the adventure of shopping turns up some gems.

Rouille is a provencal sauce comprising olive oil with breadcrumbs, garlic, saffron and chile peppers. A common accompaniment to fish soup and often served with a crouton and grated gruyere. It is something of a rare treat and I love it.

Whenever we come back from Barcelona, it’s always laden with anything tinned I can’t get here. One of them is the little baby squid in olive oil – chipirones. No comparison with the fresh ones but when in need.