BIRDS

It's particularly this time of year that I do miss rainy, wet-dog country Sundays. The smell of sodden, decaying undergrowth, shotguns in the distance and alarmed pheasant leaping from the brake, the squelch of mud under boot and the lowering winter skies.

With warm days and blossom on the trees it's good time for spring ducklings. This marmalady dish, redefines duck.

Christmas is a time of a potentially monumental overspend and worshipping at the altars of vainglorious food stores. Why not look into the back of the cupboard and see what delights linger there?

We get caught in a 'sunday' roast mentality - saving the sounds and sensations for the seventh day. But roasting up in the middle of a dreary week can really bring cheer to the kitchen and makes wonderful leftovers.

This weather urges me to re-stock the larder. After a month of festive eating, I want to load up the kitchen with practical foods that will help us through these dreary months. Duck Confit, Baked Ham, Marmalade.

For those still toiling behind their pcs on Christmas Eve. And who look forward with eager dread at making the festive dinner tomorrow, I thought I would just offer some useful tips for escaping disaster and ensuring some happy results. Some of these may seem obvious, some less so.

Once you've finished licking your fingers after roast chicken, one of the delightful moments for any cook is making a stock. It's a replenishing moment. Leftovers ethos at it's best.