CHRISTMAS

Christmas is unusual for two reasons this year. First I'm not cooking. Secondly I am spending it with family. Both of which anyone who knows me will understand are uncharacteristic. But I am thrilled on both counts. Contrary to popular expectation, I love being cooked for.

Christmas is a time of a potentially monumental overspend and worshipping at the altars of vainglorious food stores. Why not look into the back of the cupboard and see what delights linger there?

This weather urges me to re-stock the larder. After a month of festive eating, I want to load up the kitchen with practical foods that will help us through these dreary months. Duck Confit, Baked Ham, Marmalade.

Under this year's Christmas tree was F-W's River Cottage Fish Book. Like his previous Meat, respect for ingredients comes first. In the knowledge that many of us are looking down at the scales right now, fish is the answer for healthy, lean eating.

For those still toiling behind their pcs on Christmas Eve. And who look forward with eager dread at making the festive dinner tomorrow, I thought I would just offer some useful tips for escaping disaster and ensuring some happy results. Some of these may seem obvious, some less so.